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 Post Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 4:34 pm 
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So most of us have a variable power scope, or a number of them. I have been told that a minimum amount of magnification should be used. I also heard guys say they crank up the magnification all the way then back it down until it's not fuzzy anymore. What's the right/best way to use these scopes and why?


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 Post Posted: Fri Jan 29, 2016 10:18 pm 
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If you are using them at night with lights or in a low light situation, use low magnification. During the day I will use whatever magnification helps me to to see the target the best.


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 Post Posted: Sat Jan 30, 2016 12:58 am 
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What Paul said. That's what I do too.

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 Post Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 11:42 am 
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Gary Rapp wrote:
So most of us have a variable power scope, or a number of them. I have been told that a minimum amount of magnification should be used. I also heard guys say they crank up the magnification all the way then back it down until it's not fuzzy anymore. What's the right/best way to use these scopes and why?


A lot of people don't really understand high magnification scopes.
Your parallex plays a big part. If you have a fairly high power with no parallex adjustment you should keep the magnification down as low as possible when shooting 200, 300 + yards.
These scopes should have a parallex "FOCUS/Adjustment" to set the RETICLE to the distance your shooting and the to the magnification your using.
If the PARALLEL is not adjusted and your eye is not perfectly centered your shot will not be true because the reticle is not centered.
Magnification is a matter of personal taste in how you use it. I prefer higher magnification for lots of reasons. Some people won't, for lots of reasons.
Target shooting with a quality scope and high magnification will allow you to see bullet holes at 300 and 400 yards in the target and IMO provide greater detail for more accurate shot placement.
Just make sure the PARALLEX is set to the yardage your shooting. If there is no PARALLEX adjustment then it is factory set at 100 yards in most cases (at 100 yards your eye does not have to centered to the scope, at 200 yards if your eye is not centered the RETICLE will move on the target and give a false view.

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 Post Posted: Wed Feb 03, 2016 11:43 am 
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OH and I guess this too,
in the summer or on a sunny day, the higher the magnification the greater the heat mirage (heat waves).

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 Post Posted: Wed Apr 06, 2016 8:06 am 
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From the web:

A 50mm objective does not gather or transmit more light to your eye than a 40/42mm objective in a 1" tube. It is the the exit pupil and the light transmission quality of the glass that determines low light visibility and what you can see at sunrise, sunset, and at night. The exit pupil should be as large as the human eye under the same conditions. The exit pupil is calculated by dividing the objective diameter by the power setting on the scope. At night a 42mm objective scope set on 6 power will give you a 7mm exit pupil which is optimal and matches your eye and transmits the maximum light the eye can see.


From Nikon: "As far as 30mm vs. 1", they do not gather or transmit any more light than a 1" scope, but they provide a larger sweet spot to enhance resolution."


From Leupold: "The key to a scope providing a bright image to the shooter is not how much light it "gathers" but how much usable light it transmits. "Gathers, transmits, what's the difference?" Quite a lot, actually. First of all, rifle scope do not "gather" light, they transmit it. Yes, large objective scopes allow more light to enter the scope, but that by itself does not guarantee that the image will be any brighter than a smaller objective scope's. In other words, the better the glass and coatings you get, the better your night hunting."


Since a healthy eye pupil is 7, think in numbers of 7:


First number represents magnification setting, 7 represents healthy exit pupil, last number is your objective lens size.


1X7= 7MM
2X7= 14MM
3X7= 21MM
4X7=28MM
5X7=35MM
6X7=42MM
7X7=49MM
7X8=56MM


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